Witching Out in Salem

As the witching hour reaches its peak, a full moon rises over a twisting maze of russet streets and colonial storefronts. Ghouls flock to graveyards older than the American Constitution, and witches descend on the thoroughfares of Salem, Mass. as they sport thick plaid scarves and modern knitted witch hats — on sale at local apothecaries and street stands for only $29.99. Every October, the quaint city of Salem — only an hour outside of Boston by car or train — is transformed into a premier location for Halloween haunts, as over one million tourists invade the eight square miles of cobblestone streets to conjure the best long weekend of their spooky season.

Salem is known for its infamous legacy of witchcraft — or rather, its astonishing lack thereof, and the disturbing misogynistic and racist implications of the true series of events, depending on which side of history you subscribe to. Nonetheless, an approximate 25 unnecessary deaths and 331 years later, this hallowed town has become an epicenter for psychics, fanatics, and millennial bloggers who have unadulterated access to a Pinterest account.

For as much as there is to say about the commodification and sensationalization of a very real and tragic historical event, a Harvard degree would be incomplete without at least a one-time exodus to this legendary artifact of Massachusetts lore. During the fall semester of my first year at Harvard, I was curious about all of the spooky attractions Salem had to offer and endeavored on my own pilgrimage to the birthplace of the witch trial.

The first thing to note about Salem, in case you are planning a visit, is that the tourist population during October is undeniable and intrusive. If you are seeking a calm weekend away from the hustle and bustle of midterms, Salem is not the place for you. That being said, your experience will be greatly improved if you fully indulge in the Halloween vibes of it all.

Before you leave, dress to impress. Grab a gratuitously large flannel scarf and dawn your best Christian Girl Autumn garb before heading into Salem as if you are Caitlin Covington in the flesh! A trip to this iconic Halloween destination is not complete without a costume of some sort, and you shouldn’t be surprised should you find yourself surrounded by a parade of outfits that range from cute and referential to downright actually scary.

My first recommendation in pursuit of this horror movie-esque town’s spirit would be to embrace your own haunted score. Nina Simone’s “I Put a Spell on You” is an underrated All-Hallows-Eve hit, and “Heads Will Roll” by the Yeah Yeah Yeahs is a more subtle take on spooky sonic fusion. Bobby “Boris” Pickett’s “Monster Mash” is an obvious classic, as is Michael Jackson’s “Thriller,” but I might also recommend “Murder on the Dancefloor” by Sophie Ellis-Bextor as a more modern inclusion in your list of haunting hits. “Witchcraft” by Frank Sinatra, “Rhiannon” by Fleetwood Mac, and “Devil Woman” by Cliff Richard are also all worthy additions to the witchy playlist you’ll listen to on your ride up north.

Another great way of getting yourself in the mood on your way into town would be reading a thematically appropriate book or play. I mean, where else would you read Arthur Miller’s “The Crucible” if not during your trip to its very origin? If you are interested in supporting a local independent bookstore, you may also consider picking up a copy at Wicked Good Books during your trip.

Your first stop once your feet hit some of the oldest bricks in the United States, per my recommendation, should be the Broad Street Cemetery. Slightly removed from the bloated tourist underbelly of the downtown area, there is no better place to examine the genius loci of Salem than to visit a living museum of its past generations of spirits. Take yourself on a tour of the art of American gravestones in this graveyard, where you may just find the oldest headstone you have ever seen.

While America’s unofficial Halloween capital does not boast a unique food culture, it is overflowing with exciting autumnal options this time of year. Gulu-Gulu Café is an excellent spot to try craft pumpkin beer for the first time, and Far From the Tree Cider House is an ideal place to tuck into some alcoholic cider after hours of walking through hordes of tourists.

A trip to Salem wouldn’t be complete without experimenting with witchcraft. Artemisia Botanicals is a phenomenal first step to embracing your inner witch — an old-school apothecary and purveyor of candles, crystals, and love spells that you would be hard-pressed to leave without finding something of which you are desperately in need. Among the historical tours, antique stores, and themed events available around town, you also simply cannot leave without speaking with a psychic. Many psychics in town advertise a generational connection with the original “witches” of the infamous trials and, whether or not you believe in the craft, you would be remiss to leave without gleaning potential insight into your future from a real-life witch.

Showing on your laptop or dorm projector this October, “Hocus Pocus” (1993)

might just be the all-around perfect conclusion to your witchy day. Longtime readers know I am a constant proponent of “Practical Magic” (1998), and “The Craft” (1996) is not only a delight from start to finish, but also low-key scary. The aesthetically conscious feminist may also consider the spell-binding “The Love Witch” (2016). After a long day of jaunting around Salem, it’s hard to imagine a better conclusion to your spooky adventure than curling up with a good movie and a lit pumpkin-scented candle.

Kate E. Ravenscroft is a Harvard College junior, double concentrating in English and Economics and a Staff Writer for the Crimson Arts Board. She is the creator of the “Genius Loci” column, where she writes about embracing the spirit of places both near and far through art. She can be reached at kate.ravenscroft@thecrimson.com.