Mimi’s Chūka Diner Review: A Unique Slant on Diner Fare

Need a new go-to Somerville spot? Mimi’s Chūka Diner, the brainchild of chefs Ted Woo and Jon Awerman, may be the right place for you. This small restaurant, which opened on Jan. 30, is sure to become a comforting favorite in the area. According to the restaurant’s website, the term “Chūka” refers to Chinese cuisine with a Japanese twist. Woo and Awerman combine this unique cuisine with the atmosphere and offerings of New York City-style diners, generating a vibe and flavor that only Mimi’s can call its own.

The diner is nestled inside the Foods Hub of Aeronaut Brewing Company alongside a few other vendors. It’s a bit of a maze, but once you stumble upon the entrance, Mimi’s invites you into a classic diner experience — red booths, shining metal chairs — mixed with touches of Chinese decor and Japanese wall art. The combination is eclectic and homey, and the vibe is only heightened by the friendly staff, who are quick to give recommendations and make conversation. With the relatively open kitchen making it easy to see the staff talk and cook, the atmosphere is calm and comforting like a friend’s favorite hangout.

A good way to start a meal at Mimi’s is with the smashed cucumber salad, which consists of thinly sliced cuke chunks doused in a tangy miso vinaigrette. Nori is also thrown into the mix, which gives the salad a richer flavor. Peanuts give this wholesome starter a satisfying crunch. Simple without being boring, the salad is also a great way to preface the rest of the menu’s generally heavier options.

From there, a solid option is the Utsunomiya-style pork and cabbage gyoza. Mimi’s fries these dumplings until they’re crispy on the outside and juicy within. The meal is Japanese, but a bit of Chinese fusion is added by the house made chili crisp that tops the gyoza. This condiment is subtly spicy, so as not to drown out the savory filling, but it also makes the dish feel exciting even for dumpling experts. Ultimately, if you go to Mimi’s, you should get the dumplings.

Beyond these side dishes, the restaurant also offers family-style plates. But the burger plate, a staple of diner fare, highlights the restaurant’s dedication to mixing things up. The patty is high-quality, made of American wagyu brisket and chuck, but it’s also seasoned perfectly without being greasy. The toppings depart from an American burger — it comes with shreds of cabbage, kewpie mayo, and an addicting yaki-barbeque sauce. This sauce is the star of the show, infusing the burger with a sweet-and-savory flavor.

The only thing missing from the burger is a tangy element, which could perhaps be added through some pickles or onions. Alongside the sandwich comes a bed of fresh fries, coated in a blend described as “Chūka fine herbs.” It’s telling that the restaurant gives attention even to the humble spud — no part of the meal is left untouched by the chefs’ love for unique flavor profiles.

Overall, the food is tasty, but some of the prices get in the way of the iconic diner feeling. The diner’s motto boasts that it carries cheap eats, proclaiming: “Good food. Good service. Good price.” But it’s a little misleading to call the food affordable. A burger plate runs for $18, and while it’s delicious, it’s not necessarily budget-friendly. And that’s one of the most reasonably priced meals on the menu. While the good food and service won’t disappoint, the last promise isn’t quite as reasonable for a diner spot.

Mimi's Chūka Diner promises to be a neighborhood staple. Woo and Awerman’s slant on Chinese-Japanese food is exciting and unique, but most importantly, it’s also tasty. The place is also full of friendly faces and, with the Aeronaut space surrounding it, good beer. Stop in next time you’re in the Somerville area, where you’ll get a homey experience that’ll take you back to your favorite memory of a cozy diner.

—Staff writer Hannah E. Gadway can be reached at hannah.gadway@thecrimson.com.