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At New York Fashion Week, Bezva — an independent womenswear brand established in 2006 in Ukraine by Svitlana Bevza — hosted an exhibition of their Autumn/Winter 2025 collection at the Ukrainian Institute of America. The collection is a reflection of inner harmony, showcasing the diversity of self-expression and confidence.
Bevza, a brand known for its sustainable clothes, brought its environmentally-conscious approach to this collection, as seen in its intentional approach to materials and handcrafted designs. Crafting many pieces of this collection, the brand utilized upcycled materials and deadstock fabrics.
The collection was displayed throughout two grand rooms that stretched the entirety of the floor. On one side of the floor, dresses rested on mannequins placed throughout the space. On the other side, Bevza showcased their accessories in clear boxes of wheat dispersed throughout the room — a nod to wheat production, a major industry in Ukraine. Bezva takes design inspiration from her homeland of Ukraine, and the entirety of the collection was made in the Bezva Atelier in Kyiv.
The exhibit included 17 looks, each articulating a sleek, refined, and timeless elegance. The dresses fit very close to the body and were draped to hang straight down over the legs, communicating a very minimalist and reserved look.
Bevza’s weave pattern and braid texture were creatively incorporated into many of the exhibition's designs. One cream dress, for instance, primarily consisted of the braid pattern roped around the body, starting on top of the left shoulder, going under the right arm, and then cropped circularly around the body. A black dress utilized the braiding pattern as a strap, tying around the back of the neck and the lower back of the dress — giving the dress a close-fitting hourglass shape. The signature braid also appeared as a vast, half-foot-wide leather belt that accompanied a pinstriped one-piece paint suit with a flared-up collar.
Bevza’s iconic woven texture was also seamlessly incorporated into their eco-conscious designs. For example, a hand-knitted mink coat with a braid texture was created from repurposed vintage fur, and another beautiful look was the grey melange cardigan made from the leftover deadstock fabrics from the Atelier.
The accessories were also intricately designed in line with Bevza’s Ukrainian heritage. For example, Bezva drew inspiration from the wheat grown throughout Ukraine for the diamond-shaped purses which accessorized a few of the looks in the collection.
Gold brooches and earrings designed in the grain pattern were placed in transparent cube containers. Other display cases showed off muted two-tone bracelets, which stood out in the collection for their eye-catching combination of red, black, and gold. While not necessarily complementing the rest of the colors of the collection, the bracelets highlighted the dark and moody side of Bevza’s cold elegance.
Additionally, many of the mannequins had fur headbands, a reminder to viewers that this was the Autumn/Winter collection. The caps were all hand-knitted from surplus yarn left over from other works from the Atelier.
Finally, front and center, Bezva positioned a mannequin head with hair braided in the same pattern used in the clothes throughout the exhibit. Wheat was also entwined throughout the hair, emphasizing the importance of grain to the collection and to Ukrainian heritage.
Immersed in Bevza’s exhibit, one could feel the Ukrainian culture and heritage emanating throughout the building and collection. Bevza’s quiet yet luxurious ethos radiated throughout the Ukrainian Institute of America. This made for a very peaceful and intimate experience, with the sun beaming through the window and bathing the clothes in light. Bezva’s looks, inspired by vintage designs, still remain modern. They transport viewers through both time and place, presenting marvels deeply rooted in the designer’s Ukrainian heritage.
—Staff writer Christian A. Gines can be reached at christian.gines@thecrimson.com.
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