Kava Neo-Taverna Review: Authentic Greek Cuisine Restrained by the Limits of Fine Dining

As temperatures in Cambridge drop this November, layering up and staying inside are not the only solutions to surviving the cold. Kava Neo-Taverna — a Greek restaurant in Boston’s South End — will transport you to a warm, Mediterranean setting through its traditional tastes, vibrant music, and cozy atmosphere.

This small indoor space exudes warmth, with straw chairs and lamps hanging from ropes above the closely arranged tables evoking a homey feeling for diners. The large window frames expand the interior space and attract passersby with colorful, carefully constructed dishes. Diners are welcomed into the charming restaurant in the best way possible: with warm, freshly baked bread and high quality olive oil.

Kava boasts a large selection of mezedakia — small plates — that maintain their Greek names on the menu, including vegetarian, meat, and seafood options. The feta psiti dish features feta cheese wrapped in phyllo, baked, and drizzled with honey. While it is served at an ideal temperature and encapsulates the ultimate balance of saltiness and sweetness, the crunchiness needed to make this traditional dish take off is missing.

The true challenge for any Greek restaurant that promises authentic cuisine is the lahano dolmades: cabbage leaves that are generously stuffed with a rice filling with beef and herbs. And Kava does not disappoint. Its dolmades are sweet with citrusy undertones and perfectly complementary flavors. While they fail the crumble test, falling apart after the first bite, they are nonetheless a proper ode to Greek cuisine as the recipe is utterly faithful to its origins.

The true highlight of a dining experience at Kava is the mixed grill entree: an arrangement of souvlakia, lamb chops, and sausages. The different kinds of meats are seasoned and cooked to perfection: They are crispy yet soft and tender on the inside. Unlike some of the mezedakia, this dish delivers both on texture and flavor, leaving a lasting impression.

This small indoor space exudes warmth, with straw chairs and lamps hanging from ropes above the closely arranged tables composing a homey feeling. By Courtesy of Olga Kerameos

The experience of a Saturday night dinner at Kava is certainly unique. Dimmed lights heighten one’s sense of taste and smell, while the music forces diners to speak loudly. Kava ultimately offers an immersive meal experience on top of the authentic gastronomical one.

Still, part of the authenticity of Greek cuisine is lost through the fine dining experience. Kava’s faithfulness to Greek cuisine recipe-wise is admirable — however, the setting and presentation sometimes diminish the essence of Greek dining, where generosity is a key element. The small portions of food Kava serves are not true to Greek cuisine since they cannot be easily shared with many tablemates, making the experience inauthentic to some extent.

All things considered, Kava’s dynamic atmosphere and diverse mezedakia selection keeps diners delighted, leaving them eagerly waiting to see whether the next traditional plate will outshine the previous one — and yes, it always does.

—Staff writer Olga Kerameos can be reached at olga.kerameos@thecrimson.com.