Pammy’s Review: Eclectic, Exciting, and Just Darn Good

A restaurant — from its atmosphere to its food to its physical space — is a work of art. No place better resembles this artistry than Pammy’s tucked away on Massachusetts Ave.

Packed to the brim with mingling artists and academics, this modern, interesting restaurant boasts a confluence of different styles, cuisines, and designs. Its brand is reflected in every aspect of the restaurant, from its servers’ knowledgeable, friendly, and caring demeanor to its sleek decor and carefully curated, albeit expensive, menu.

A mural of quiet, peaceful farm scenes adorns the pathway into the space, offering early hints at the restaurant’s emphasis on the local and fresh. The pathway leads patrons to a glass door inscribed with the name “Pammy’s” in gold, parlor-style lettering. The namesake, Pam Willis, owns and operates the restaurant alongside her husband, Chris.

Retro-style leather booths line a wall of the dining room, and a large communal table stretches the length of the room. Glass orbs complement the dimly lit, warm atmosphere, and the white-tile, wood-burning fireplace fills the room with the subtle, sweet fragrance of smoke.

The restaurant’s whitewashed brick walls, ornate mirrors, and antique-esque sculpture behind the bar give the space an eclectic feel — a perfect play between industrial warehouse and Italian chic.

The meal starts with crafted cocktails, piles of sourdough bread, and fresh green olive oil. With the hum of lively chatter combined with vintage rock, the atmosphere is both lively but not too loud, busy but still private.

Pammy’s Fernandito mocktail with cola and bitter orange is a perfect way to start the meal. The subtle and sly bitter elements of the concoction cut through the buttery olive oil with precision and poise. Not too sweet and not too bitter, the mixed drink both cleanses the palette and evokes the familiar with its soothing undertones of cola.

The menu — which demands the steep, set price of $84 per person for their standard prix fixe (only the bar and lounge area offer à la carte options) — is organized by increasing dish size. Each diner may pick any three of the provided options, and the servers are happy to offer advice and interesting pairings based on the diner’s taste.

A great first choice is the octopus, which is served alongside crispy, yet pillowy pork rillon, a pool of rich and heavy zabaione, and cold pickled beets. The octopus is melt-in-your mouth buttery and pairs perfectly with the saltiness of the characteristically fatty pork. The savory zabaione — a traditional Italian egg-yolk sauce and dessert — however, is a low point. Too rich and frankly unexciting in this context, this sauce is the wrong choice for the already rich and fatty dish; a lighter, acidic sauce — maybe citrus-based — would do wonders. The pickled beets, thankfully, are there to cut through the fat of the inventive surf and turf.

A great option for the second dish is the yakitori chicken, which is tangy and sweet with an oolong cream presumably meant to balance the punch of the chicken. Scales of transparent pickled turnip layer each pierced skewer of chicken, adding a nice freshness and crunch to the dish. A turn-on-the-heel from the opulence of the octopus starter, the yakitori chicken is light, refreshing, and simply exquisite — with a perfect crust of flaky salt. However, the dish is again brought down by the sauce; the oolong cream is bland and mayonnaise-y — better avoided or, at least, pared down to a garnish.

As a third and final savory dish, the lasagne bianca is the star of the show. The millefeuille-style lasagna is vegetarian-based with trumpet mushrooms and cipollini chutney, surrounded by a wreath of lettuce topped with freshly shaved pecorino cheese. The charred bottom of this luxurious dish adds texture and delight, and the creamy cheese is balanced with the sharp, sweet, cold chutney, composing a perfect, perfect dish.

For dessert, a solid option is the seasonal honeynut squash torta. A clear twist on the classic pumpkin pie, this dessert is aesthetically reminiscent of a Basque cheesecake and is, as one would expect, almost identical to the traditional dessert. Why honeynut squash and not pumpkin, you might ask? Well, it’s hard to tell. But, the switch does add a subtle, amusing twist. The thin, cold slice of pie is perfectly coupled with a sweetened scoop of frozen yogurt. Though the white chocolate base of the pie may be slightly overwhelming, the dessert is simple, not too sweet, and a nice elevation of its overused inspiration.

Falling just short of perfect, Pammy’s only issues arise when they try to take a dish too far; a heavy zabaione or an oolong cream, for example, add just too much to an otherwise perfect dish. When considering the big picture, though, these are minor issues for what is undoubtedly one of the best restaurants in Cambridge.

So, the next time you want to splurge on an upscale, delicious meal, take a walk over to Pammy’s — with a reservation — and enjoy fresh, exquisite dishes on their marble tabletops. You won’t be disappointed.

—Staff writer Thomas A. Ferro can be reached at thomas.ferro@thecrimson.com.