Summertime in the Country

Free time at Harvard is a precious commodity. Between studying, socializing and the rigors of everyday life, it might seem impossible to find time to explore the world outside of Boston--even outside of Harvard--during your short stay in Cambridge.

But travelling in New England is not as difficult as you might think. And the sights you'll see--from the picturesque maritime villages on the North Shore to gritty industrial downtowns in Boston's suburbs to stately Brahmin mansions in Newport--make taking a day off from Cambridge well worth your time.

Getting Around

You do not need a car to explore the Boston area. The Massachusetts bay Transportation Authority (MBTA, or just the T), Amtrak and a number of bus lines make most of New England's attractions accessible for relatively low prices.

The MBTA's commuter rail--the "Purple Line"--operates out of two termini: North Station (on the Green and Orange Lines of the MBTA subway), and South Station (on the Red Line). From these stations, 11 lines radiate into Boston's suburbs, and throughout most of eastern Massachusetts.

Trains run frequently, and on weekends operate on a reduced schedule. Check the T's Web site--http://www.mbta.com--for the latest timetables. Fares vary according to how many zones your trip spans. The most expensive round-trip ticket comes to $9.50, but most destinations cost $6 or less.

Amtrak also departs from South Station, as do Greyhound, Bonanza and several other bus lines.

Seeing New England

For history buffs, New England has no shortage of sights and museums.

The MBTA's new Plymouth line takes visitors south to the heart of the Old Colony. Plymouth ($8 round trip), home of the infamous Plymouth Rock and the Pilgrim's first permanent settlement in the New World, remains a vintage seaside port.

A reconstruction of the Mayflower and a preserved waterfront also grace Plymouth's harbor. The town pays homage to eastern Massachusetts' staple crop as the home of Cranberry World.

To the north, Salem ($5 round trip on the Rockport line) lives with the legacy of the Salem Witch trails. The Salem Witch Museum--and a flourishing industry of witch-themed gift shops and tours--commemorate the 1693 trials.

Salem later prospered in the 19th century as its harbor became one of the busiest in the United States. The restored Customs House--former workplace of Salem native Nathaniel Hawthorne--presides over Pickering Wharf, now home to numerous shops and restaurants.

Hawthorne's birthplace and the House of seven Gables, which inspired his novel of that name, sit side by side a few blocks from the Customs House.

Inland to the west of Salem, Lowell ($7 round trip on the Lowell line) was the first American city of the Industrial Revolution, and the now-restored facto-

In Newport, RI (served by Greyhound), thefinanciers who profited from the IndustrialRevolution built their summer "cottages"--giantstone mansions, most of which are now open to thepublic.

Shady sloping streets cover college Hill inProvidence ($9.50 on the Attleboro/Stoughtonline), home of Brown University and the RhodeIsland School of Design. Thayer Street, adownsized Haight-Ashburry, crowns College Hill.

Out There

Northern New England offers opportunities forhiking, camping and sightseeing aplenty.

The Presidential Range in northern NewHampshire is home to the world's worst weather, atthe peak of Mt. Washington.

Winter wind speeds of 231 mph have beenrecorded at the top of the 6,288-foot mountain.

In the summer the weather is a little tamer,and you can hike up to the summit or take a cograilway.

Straight out of a Norman Rockwell painting, therustic villages of western Mass. Are among theremaining outposts of small-town New England.Nestled in the rolling Berkshires, Greyhoundserves Stockbridge, Williamstown and other townsin the area.

Meanwhile, Vermont to the north is dotted withantiques shops and picturesque Green Mountainhamlets, Vermont is ideal for hiking on theAppalachian Trail (AT) or biking on the state'swooded dirt roads. Home to he hippie capitalistempire of Ben & Jerry's in Barre, Vermont Transit,whose buses run frequently from South Station.

The largest New England state, Maine, boastsboth a beautiful, lighthouse-studed coastline andmajestic inland mountain peaks.

The AT terminates at Mt. Katahdin, andshoreline ports and Kennebunk and Bar Harbor drawthousands of visitors annually. Tourists alsoflock to Freeport to shop at L.L. Bean.

Water, Water

The ocean has long been the lifeblood of theNew England economy, and all along the coastfishing, whaling and shipping ports testify to thecrucial role the sea has played in the history ofthe region.

Along the North Shore, Gloucester ($7.50 roundtrip on the T's Rockport line) was once a majorfishing center. Today the town fills withbeach-goers in the summer.

Just to the north, Rockport ($8 round trip)sits at the end of Cape Ann, a windswept villagereplete with beaches and a shopping promenade.

Whaling formed the backbone of the New Bedford(Bonanza bus lines, $20 round trip) economy in the19th century, and today the fishing fleetcontinues to anchor in the harbor.

New Bedford, along with Nantucket, which isaccessible by ferry from Woods Hole ($25 roundtrip on Bonanza), were the two largest whalingports in the United states before the decline ofthe industry in the second half of the 19thcentury.

For the intrepid, a two-hour ride on Amtrakfrom the South station brings you to Mystic, Conn.($50 round trip), home of Mystic Seaport. TheSeaport is an outdoor maritime museum, home to thelast whaling ship in existence, the Morgan.

Mystic is also home to Mystic Aquarium, one ofthe largest in the country, and of Mystic Pizza,immortalized in a Julia Roberts movie of the samename.

Don't miss the opportunity to get out on thewater yourself. Ferries ply the water betweenBoston and numerous small islands in MassachusettsBay. Several groups run whale-watch cruises fromRockport and Gloucester on Cape Ann, and otherleave from Cape Cod. Expect to spend about $25 forthe trip.

Branching Off

Don't feel constrained to visit the closes ormost famous corners of the region. All of NewEngland drips with history, and breathtakingscenery isn't confined to what you can find in thepages of a guide book.

Sometime the most rewarding travel comes whenyou just resolve to escape the gravity of theSquare and go wherever the T takes you.

So put down the book--your Summer School gradesdon't really matter--hop on the train and get out.You'll be glad you did.-Gregory S. Krauss contributed the to thereporting of this story

In Newport, RI (served by Greyhound), thefinanciers who profited from the IndustrialRevolution built their summer "cottages"--giantstone mansions, most of which are now open to thepublic.

Shady sloping streets cover college Hill inProvidence ($9.50 on the Attleboro/Stoughtonline), home of Brown University and the RhodeIsland School of Design. Thayer Street, adownsized Haight-Ashburry, crowns College Hill.

Out There

Northern New England offers opportunities forhiking, camping and sightseeing aplenty.

The Presidential Range in northern NewHampshire is home to the world's worst weather, atthe peak of Mt. Washington.

Winter wind speeds of 231 mph have beenrecorded at the top of the 6,288-foot mountain.

In the summer the weather is a little tamer,and you can hike up to the summit or take a cograilway.

Straight out of a Norman Rockwell painting, therustic villages of western Mass. Are among theremaining outposts of small-town New England.Nestled in the rolling Berkshires, Greyhoundserves Stockbridge, Williamstown and other townsin the area.

Meanwhile, Vermont to the north is dotted withantiques shops and picturesque Green Mountainhamlets, Vermont is ideal for hiking on theAppalachian Trail (AT) or biking on the state'swooded dirt roads. Home to he hippie capitalistempire of Ben & Jerry's in Barre, Vermont Transit,whose buses run frequently from South Station.

The largest New England state, Maine, boastsboth a beautiful, lighthouse-studed coastline andmajestic inland mountain peaks.

The AT terminates at Mt. Katahdin, andshoreline ports and Kennebunk and Bar Harbor drawthousands of visitors annually. Tourists alsoflock to Freeport to shop at L.L. Bean.

Water, Water

The ocean has long been the lifeblood of theNew England economy, and all along the coastfishing, whaling and shipping ports testify to thecrucial role the sea has played in the history ofthe region.

Along the North Shore, Gloucester ($7.50 roundtrip on the T's Rockport line) was once a majorfishing center. Today the town fills withbeach-goers in the summer.

Just to the north, Rockport ($8 round trip)sits at the end of Cape Ann, a windswept villagereplete with beaches and a shopping promenade.

Whaling formed the backbone of the New Bedford(Bonanza bus lines, $20 round trip) economy in the19th century, and today the fishing fleetcontinues to anchor in the harbor.

New Bedford, along with Nantucket, which isaccessible by ferry from Woods Hole ($25 roundtrip on Bonanza), were the two largest whalingports in the United states before the decline ofthe industry in the second half of the 19thcentury.

For the intrepid, a two-hour ride on Amtrakfrom the South station brings you to Mystic, Conn.($50 round trip), home of Mystic Seaport. TheSeaport is an outdoor maritime museum, home to thelast whaling ship in existence, the Morgan.

Mystic is also home to Mystic Aquarium, one ofthe largest in the country, and of Mystic Pizza,immortalized in a Julia Roberts movie of the samename.

Don't miss the opportunity to get out on thewater yourself. Ferries ply the water betweenBoston and numerous small islands in MassachusettsBay. Several groups run whale-watch cruises fromRockport and Gloucester on Cape Ann, and otherleave from Cape Cod. Expect to spend about $25 forthe trip.

Branching Off

Don't feel constrained to visit the closes ormost famous corners of the region. All of NewEngland drips with history, and breathtakingscenery isn't confined to what you can find in thepages of a guide book.

Sometime the most rewarding travel comes whenyou just resolve to escape the gravity of theSquare and go wherever the T takes you.

So put down the book--your Summer School gradesdon't really matter--hop on the train and get out.You'll be glad you did.-Gregory S. Krauss contributed the to thereporting of this story