TRATTORIA PULCINELLA

The North End is not the only answer for those seeking an authentic Italian dinner. Trattoria Pulcinella, a mere 10 minute walk up Concord Street at the intersection of Huron Avenue, is a jewel in Boston's somewhat chintzy crown of Italian restaurants. Aside from its pleasant atmosphere and consistently excellent food, Trattoria Pulcinella boasts the additional advantage of proximity. The restaurant's warm, rustic interior is cozy on slower nights but can become cramped as the oilcloth-topped tables are filled with people. Ochre colored sponge-painted walls lend warmth to the room, and empty Chianti bottles swing demurely from the wooden-Vegas ceiling. The highly romantic effect is heightened by a solid wine list. Appetizer specials include mixed greens topped with diced truffles and juicy slices of grilled portabella mushrooms, as well as a flavor-charged concoction of roasted pears wrapped in smoky proscuitto packages resting on a gorgonzola cream sauce. From the permanent menu, steamed mussels with peppercorns arrive tender and pink, nestled in a delicate white wine broth. Lamb carpaccio, an unlikely but delicious variation on the more traditional beef, is herb-scented, sliced meltingly thin and drizzled with a light and nutty olive oil. An entree special of duck breast stuffed with figs and walnuts and topped with a fruity wine-reduction sauce manages to successfully navigated the tightrope between savory and overwhelmingly rich. Sauteed spinach counteracts the succulent sweetness of the meat, and the slightly viscous sauce lends itself perfectly to the thick slices of flour-dusted farm bread. Desserts include a rich, dense chocolate cake, sorbet, creme caramel and the old-standby, tiramisu. Creme caramel is almost, but not quite, too sweet, bathed in a delicate sauce of caramelized sugar. Tiramisu is traditional, favoring the rum-soaked ladyfingers over the sometimes overbearing mascarpone cream. Dinner for two, including wine, appetizers, entrees and dessert, rings in at a steep $45-50 per person, though, so Trattoria Pulcinella is best frequented for a special occasion. 147 HURON AVE 491-6336