Cuban Revolution a la Henri

A short walk down Mass. Ave. from Harvard Square brings you to Chez Henri, a French-Cuban inspired restaurant with soooo much going for it. For starters, step inside and be greeted by K.C. Cargill, the friendly host who places patrons immediately in a small dining room at an intimate table. The interior is decorated in wine-red tones, with a romantic touch of soft glowing light. The ceiling lamps at Henri's are especially interesting--each seems to be a one-of-a-kind piece of art made with copper wire, scarlet colored glass and fiery tear -shaped bulbs. These lamps, a small collection of wine bottles and a few black and white prints contribute to the sparse yet effective decoration of the dining room. In fact, the relaxed, minimalist setting is a great contrast to the exotic, complex and flavorful dishes served later in the evening. Pleasant (not-too-loud) music and high ceilings help to diffuse sound and lend privacy to the meal, creating a truly romantic and chatty atmosphere.

The waitstaff is pleasant and helpful. Waitress Michelle Rossetto knows her way around monkfish and red wine (not necessarily together, though) and isn't afraid to share her personal opinion on Yucca con Mojo when asked. She arrives at the table bearing crusty bread with butter and small ramekins of salt and black peppercorns and refills the water glasses frequently. Discreet is the name of the game here--one second your water has dipped below the gulp mark and the next, voila, it's replenished without a bit of interruption to the conversation or jostling of an elbow. The waiters and waitresses at Henri's seem to have mastered the art of gliding amongst the tables, barely noticeable as they whisk away empty plates and uncork the red wine. Wine is another thing Rossetto knows--she recommended an excellent dry white to accompany dinner and the choice was a success.

Dinner, yes, dinner: appetizers come in all shapes and sizes, and a good combination would be the Chantal Cheese Bread Pudding with Apples along with the Curried Coconut Shrimp and Black Bean Salsa ($8.95, $6.95). The contrast between an exceptionally soft and sweet dish, and the crispy spicy flavor of the other keeps the palate on edge right up until the main course (which, incidentally, immediately follows the silent removal of empty appetizer dishes). In terms of entrees, Chez Henri's offers a little of everything: from paella to venison to the traditional steak--but each dish is a meal in itself. The kitchen really doesn't leave much up to the individual diner, although requests are honored as often as possible. You have to like your fish as well as your Grapefruit BBQ sauce, Moro Rice and Jicama Shrimp (but chances are you will). It's evident that the chefs in this exotic kitchen know how to combine their dressings and vegetables and sides to create a well blended, flavorful and satisfying meal. You just have to trust their judgment. It would be a shame to ask them to leave out the pomegranate and ask for ketchup instead.

The dress lies somewhere between casual and semi-formal: no jeans and sneakers, but jacket and tie aren't necessarily mandatory either. Chinos, skirts, slacks and the occasional suit seem to be the norm. And most of the clientele are older, so a wacky leather and chains get-up would definitely stand out as inappropriate. If you want to give your taste buds an orgasmic experience (great way to impress a first date), Chez Henri is a perfect place to take refuge and put yourself at the mercy of the food. Order the Monkfish with Fennel Puree, Shallot Jus and Chanterelles ($16.95). The capers melt in your mouth, the fish is white and tender and the accompanying mashed potatoes are completely integrated into the whole eating experience. Some restaurants slap down an ice-cream scoop dollop of mushy tuber that screams, "Here, you want starch, you got starch!" Not this place. Here even potatoes are treated as the god of all side dishes and are served with panache.

Dessert being the natural finale to the food fiesta, be sure to save room (or blow your diet and your waistband all to hell for the fun of it) for Triple Sorbet or a sampling from the Chocolate Platter, among other delicious offerings (all reasonably priced at $5.95).

Chez Henri's deserves two thumbs up for the atmosphere, the staff and certainly the food. And then there's the bar. According to the brochure, "wildly popular rum cocktails...Joe recommends Westerhall Rum with a Renwood Cigar. Watch for details of our Cuban Rum & Cigar Tasting event coming soon!" Mon Dieu, quelle amusement!FM