The Slopes Are Alive

I've always wanted to go to Switzerland. Ever since I saw The Sound of Music I have dreamed of the Alps, the quaint little villages, the blue sky and the mountains. But I never had the chance to go.

The closest I've been is Vail, Colorado. Which may actually be closer than it sounds.

If you drive to Vail from Denver, the mountain town will come upon you as a surprise. You've been driving for an hour-and-a-half, the golf course on your left seems endless, when suddenly the red topped roofs and neat rows of town houses, condominiums and shops appears.

In the winter, of course, there is always snow in the Colorado mountains, and usually a lot of snow. In most cities, even in ski towns like Aspen, the snow seems to turn brown as soon as it hits the ground. But in Vail, even nature has some kind of reverence for a beautiful scene.

The entire town is covered in a pure white blanket from sometime in November until springtime. Most of the buildings seem to have been built to complement the weather--either white with red roofs or modern wood and glass. On a lot of the streets, driving is forbidden, but you can rent a horse and cart. On a clear night, lying in the back of a straw-filled cart, listening to the horse clomp down the streets past restaurants, shops and little private ski chalets, you can see every star in the sky.

Julie Andrews would love it.

Especially if she skiied.

There is a lot more to Vail than its ski slopes, but the skiing is really the raison d'etre for the town, and it does live up to its reputation. Unlike a lot of the ski areas in Colorado, Vail has a very diverse range of slopes. In the back bowl most of the runs are difficult or very difficult, and there is usually a lot of powder. On the front of the mountain the slopes tend to be a little easier, with several good intermediate runs and a lot of beginner hills near the bottom.

Serious skiiers usually pass over Vail and head for Aspen or Steamboat Springs, which are much harder to reach, but reputed to offer a greater number of really challenging slopes.

But if you aren't an expert, or you are only on the mountain because your relatives want to ski, Vail is probably the best ski town around. Because it is in the valley, the runs on the front of the mountain are usually not as cold as some other areas in the state, and for the non-expert skiier who just wants to have some fun, this is a blessing.

Not only that, but you can spend a week in Vail without ever putting on skis and still have fun.

As a town which was built so that very rich people could have a very good time, Vail has hundreds of shops, nightclubs, restaurants and bars. The easiest way to get rid of a lot of money is to buy a Golden Bear, which is, as its name implies, a golden bear on a chain. For less than $1000 it's a status symbol which any Preppy Handbook owner will recognize. There is also Ralph Lauren, Cartier, Gucci and Laura Ashley.

If you are lucky, however, you will manage to miss these credit card havens, and spend your money instead on good food, drink or dancing. Vail and nearby Lion's Head have some amazing restaurants. My personal favorite is The Cheese Shop, a little deli next to the King Soopers grocery store in Vail, which has amazing sandwiches for a reasonable price.